Free pattern - Seamless Wedding Afghan

I came up with this design when I really didn't like the idea of knitting the equivalent of 9 scarves and then sewing them all together. I really hate seaming, so an alternative was needed. This is based on the theory on entrelac knitting, but without any starter triangles. The whole thing is knit back and forward in garter stitch, making a lovely soft blanket.

The finished blanket is 115cm (just shy of 4 feet) along each edge. 

You can find this pattern on Ravelry here

Yarn: Bendigo Rustic 12ply 8x200gram balls (270metres per ball)

c1 'Earth' 2x200gram balls

c2 'Cedar fleck' 2x200gram balls

c3 ' Agate' 2x200gram balls

c4 'Natural fleck' 2x200gram balls

Needles:

Knitpicks options: one set 5.5mm needles. 

You will need two long (approx 150cm) knitpicks cables and end caps to use as stitch holders for the border stitches. One of these long cables will be used when knitting up the border. (you can use waste yarn to hold you stitches but it is not as convenient as the knitpicks cable)

You will also need 3 stitch markers.

Gauge: 16 stitches and 32 rows = 10cm in garter stitch

Abreviations: SPW - slip the stitch on the needle purlwise with the yarn in front of the needle as if to purl.

Directions:

The squares are worked diagonally, like stair steps. I will refer to each colour change as a 'diagonal'

Diagonal 1: (1 square)

First Square: With C1, cast on 20 Stitches. 

Slipping the first stitch of each row purlwise with the yarn in front of the needle (SPW), knit 40 rows garter stitch.

Diagonal 2: (2 squares)

First Square: Leaving your 20 stitches live on one needle, use C2  and cast 20 stitches on the empty needle. Turn your knitting so you are ready to knit the stitches just cast on.

Row 1: SPW, knit to end of row.

Row 2: SPW, knit to last stitch. Knit the last stitch together with one stitch from the first square by slipping the first stitch, knitting the next and then passing the slipped stitch over the first (SSK)

Repeat the last two rows until all stitches from the first c1 square have been knit up.

Last Square: Still using C2, pick up 20 stitches from the side of the

c1 square. 

Row 1: SPW, knit 19 stitches, turn

Row 2: SPW, knit to end of row.

Repeat first two rows 19 more times. 

You now have three squares of your afghan - one in c1, and two in c2

Diagonal 3: (3 squares)

First Square: using c3, make as for first square of diagonal two.

Middle Square(s): Still using C3, pick up 20 stitches from the side of the first c2 square. Turn 

Row 1: SPW, knit 19 stitches, turn

Row 2: SPW, knit to last stitch. Knit the last stitch together with one stitch from the next square by slipping the first stitch, knitting the next and then passing the slipped stitch over the first (SSK)

Repeat first two rows 19 more times. 

Last Square: Still using C3, pick up 20 stitches from the side of the

next square. Continue as for Last square of Diagonal 2

For diagonals 4 - 9, continue is this manner, adding in middle square repeats as needed. Colour pattern is as follows:

Diagonal 4 (4 squares): c4

Diagonal 5 (5 squares): c1

Diagonal 6 (6 squares): c2

Diagonal 7 (7 squares): c3

Diagonal 8 (8 squares): c4

Diagonal 9 (9 squares): c1

Diagonal 10: 

At this stage the afghan has reached its widest and we start to decrease the number of squares in each diagonal. Place the 20 live stitches from the last square of diagonal 9  onto one of your knitpicks cable you are using as a stitchmarker. Using c2, pick up 20 stitches from the side of this square. Work as this as a middle square. 

Work a total of 8 Squares along this Diagonal. Put the remaining live stitches onto your other knitpicks cable you are using as a stitch holder. (You will have one cable running along two sides of your afghan - every second diagonal will have live stitches to add to this cable)

Work Diagonals 11 - 17 in the same way working one square less for each diagonal. Each time add the live stitches from the previous Diagonal to your cable stitch holders. The colour pattern for these diagonals are as follows:

Diagonal 11: c3 (7 squares)

Diagonal 12: c4 (6 squares)

Diagonal 13: c1 (5 Squares)

Diagonal 14: c2 (4 Squares)

Diagonal 15: c3 (3 Squares)

Diagonal 16: c4 (2 Squares)

Diagonal 17: c1 (1 Square)

Congratulations - you should now have a total of 81 squares, making a huge square afghan in need of a border!

 

Border:

Using c4 pick up or knit* 20 stitches along each square along one side (*where you have live stitches on your holder knit these up rather than picking up stitches). (180 stitches total)

[At the end of the edge wrap the yarn around the needle, pick up a stitch in the corner (mark this stitch), and wrap the yarn around the needle again. 

Repeat from [ to ] three more times. 

Row 2: Turn and knit to end.

Row 3: Turn, and knit to end - each time you reach a marker increase on stitch on either side by wrapping the yarn around the needle.

Row 4: Turn and knit to end.

Repeat the last two rows twice more with c4, three times more with c3, twice with c2.

Using C1 knit to end of row - each time you reach a marker increase on stitch on either side by wrapping the yarn around the needle.

Using c1 cast off loosely knitwise.

Finishing: Weave in all loose ends! You have just made an afghan with no seeming at all!

Free Pattern: Elegant Drinking Scarf and Tassel Tutorial

This one was a special request for a male friend - a non-frilly scarf one could wear out on the town during Melbourne winter. Oh - but it needed a classic tassel fringe... 

May I present the Elegant Drinking Scarf...

Yarn: Naturally Me: Merino and Cashmere 8ply

50gram balls (102metres) x 4 (one ball used for tassels)

Needles: one pair 5mm needles.

Gauge: 20 stitches/10 cm (this is worked at a looser than recommended tension to create a looser, cushier fabric)

Directions: Cast on 28 stitches. 

knit 4 (purl 4, knit 4) 3 times

Repeat this row until scarf reaches desired length.

Finishing: Weave in all ends. Add a fringe of tassels - a photo tutorial of how to make a tassel fringe is available on my flickr account here

Throw your finished item around your neck, find a pub crawl, and get yourself ever so elegantly wasted...

FREE PATTERN – “La Lanterne Rouge” hat

The rider who is bringing up the rear (ie last) in the Tour de France is known as the “Lanterne Rouge” – the nickname stems from a time when red lamps used to hang from cabooses on trains.

When I think of the “Lanterne Rouge”, I have to admit I have rather romantic notions – this cyclist does not care if he doesn’t hold the yellow or green jersey, nor does he worry if he is not a contender for the King of the Mountain – because, this cyclist is ecstatic just to be competing in the world’s most prestigious cycling event and does not care where he places. There are times when I sometimes feel a little like a “Lanterne Rouge”, but then I remember that sometimes making it somewhere is usually most of the battle. This design is for anyone who has ever been proud to just show up!

Make this hat in a bright red and no matter how far you fall behind the peloton, they will never be able to lose you!

For this design I took inspiration from the shape of old iron lamps with live flames trapped within, and a ring on top from which you can hand the lamp. Worked in the entirely in the round, twisted stitches (or mini cables), divide the hat into 6 sections, each containing a flame motif on a basic lace background. An angora blend has been used to create a ‘halo’ or ‘glow’ effect. In order to obtain greater stitch definition, all knit stitches are twisted (worked through the back loop).

This hat uses less than one skein of yarn, however, if you make a gauge swatch you will have to unravel it to complete the project.

SIZE

This hat comfortably fits most adult heads up to 58cm.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Cirumference: 44cm

Height: 26cm

MATERIALS

Naturally Sensation 10ply (70% merino/ 30% Angora – 120m per 50 skein – shade 305) x1

40cm 4.5mm circular needle (or size to obtain gauge)
4.5mm Double Pointed Needles

Stitch markers
Tapestry needle

GAUGE 22sts / 30rows = 10 cm in stockinette stitch

PATTERN

Cast on 102 stitches.

Join in round, being careful not to twist – place marker at beginning of round.

Follow chart from right to left starting at row #1. Repeat chart 5 times to complete round.

Continue following chart to row 72 (6 stitches remain)

Knit 2 together 3 times (3 stitches remain)

Work an i-cord on remaining 3 stitches until i-cord measures 8cm.

Cut off working yarn and pull through remaining 3 stitches to bind. Sew end of i-cord to top of hat to create loop as shown in pictures.

Weave in all ends.

(Click to enlarge chart)